Rancho Cordova, CA

System is operating upon arrival. Glynn has no issues with systems or airflow. He did have a question about vents been closed, because he is doing home-improvement. He doesn’t want debris getting in the vents. I let him know the van should not be closed to avoid pressure in the system, and to replace his filter after his home improvement. Thermostat is responsive and calling for cool. Air handler is located in the hallway closet. Filter was recently replaced in May by Glynn. Checked on previous work and system is still draining all water properly. Flood switch is dry. Evaporator coil is clean. Blower is clean and amperage on blower is within range. Disconnect box and fuses are in good condition. Recommended a surge protector to protect the air handler from any electrical damage. Heat pump is located in backyard. Coils were dirty and washed off. Disconnect box and fuses are in good condition. Surge protectors present and still in working condition. amperage and compressor is within rang

The mini split drain line was found to be restricted and not draining efficiently. We utilized compressed air to forcefully clear the drain line multiple times. Additionally, we verified the effectiveness of the drain by pouring five water bottles into it, confirming that the unit is currently draining properly. Another issue identified is that the mini split filters are in need of cleaning, and we highly recommend washing them out.

Arrived on site to do diagnostic. Originally requested to diagnose wall unit however said wall unit was working. Was then requested to diagnose 10 year old mini split. Turned system on and both indoor and outdoor units began to operate however temperature split was only 6°. Checked outdoor unit and lines were freezing. Diagnosis is mini split is leaking refrigerant and it needs to be recharged and have the Lineset connections properly secured to prevent future leaks. Spoke with Zac and he will let me know how he would like to proceed

Blower motor installed a few weeks ago slipped off of the shaft screw. Had to reposition fan motor and tighten down shaft screw Lower motor spins more freely and properly and system is running upon departure

MFG DATE: 2016 EQUIPMENT MFG: carrier Upon arrival the client stated that the system has been good. The air filter is located hallway and attic. The filter is in a good condition. The duct work is located in attic. Ducting is sealed and intact. Attic insulation is good. Furnace is located roof . I removed the service panel from the unit. Tightened all electrical connections. Blower wheel is good. Indoor coil was good. Return temperature was 77 degrees. Supply temperature was 56 degrees. Outdoor unit is located roof. Removed the service panel from the unit. Cleaned all debris from the electrical compartment. Tightened high voltage on the contactor switch. Contactor pads are okay. The unit is equipped with a 45/5 MFD capacitor. The Capacitor is rated for a +/- 5 % and was measured at 44.7/5MFD. Outdoor fan motor is rated for 1.5 max amps and was measured at 1.0 amps. The Compressor was measured at 9.4 amps and is rated for a max amp draw of 16 amps. Washed the outdoor coil System is o

Arrived on site to perform diagnostic on an 18-year-old system. Upon arrival outdoor unit powers on however fan inside system does not. Indoor fan trying to start; removed power from system and spun fan independently; is not locked up. 120 V is present the connections to the fan which means the fan should be turning on; fan is not turning on which indicates fan has failed. In addition to the fan failed; there is moderate to heavy burning on each of the boards; the control board as well as the zone board. Those parts may fail in the future, and as a result of the total cost of repairs as well as the age of the system, I recommended replacing the system. Deborah has other projects going on right now and needs to put that on the back burner and as such, she would like to move forward with the repair at this time. Recommended a maintenance agreement to both obtain our discounts as well as enrolled in our emergency service Will order fan and return with part in a few days to install

Had to adjust some wires on the outdoor system

Upstairs damper motor got stuck on the close position. I adjusted the damper motor to position 1 so it won’t get stuck anymore. However if for some reason this will happen again the damper motor will have to be replaced.

N/A

Upon arrival, thermostat is blank and receiving no voltage from the indoor unit. Initially checked breaker and disconnect to ensure power was present at system; power was present. Opened up flood prevention switch, and noticed it was full of water; inspected drain line and noticed that the newer drain line was bridged into the old drain line likely due to the restrictions that would’ve been present, trying to change it. Out water inside of flood prevention switch, and ran new water through the system; drain appeared to be working. Pumped drain line with CO2 just to be safe and there was no water present in the system at all afterwards. System operated upon departure.

Additional P-trap vent was added to the drain line, marking proper fuse size for the heat strips is complete, project is ready for reinspection

Upon arrival client stated upstairs wouldn’t cool but downstairs would. I turned on the system from the thermostat but the outdoor condenser wouldnt turn on. I found out that the disconnect was in the off position. I flipped it on and the system turned on right away. Further in my diagnosis I found that the outdoor common wire didn’t have a secure connection and if I would’ve left without repairing it, the system would most likely go out during the summer. Up in the attic next to the Evap coil there was a big gap that was letting all the cool air escape into the attic and not the house. I repaired both problems and upon departure the system is cooling the house down.

.

At some point between now and the time the system was installed likely around 12 years ago; one of the brackets that holds the screw in for the blower compartment door has been removed. Due to this door switch inside the blower compartment was not compressing, which was not allowing power to go into the furnace. Moved the bracket from the other compartment to the blower compartment to ensure the door switch would stay compressed. Taped other compartment down with mastic sealant tape to ensure that that door would have no issues. System is operating upon departure.

Arrived on site to perform maintenance on 11-year-old system. Upon arrival system powers on when calling for cool at thermostat and presents a 20° temperature split. April air filter needs to be replaced; will return with insert. Tightened all connections on circuit board as well as powerlines. No excess burning is present on circuit board. Evaporator coil is mostly clean however moderate dirt is present on the horizontal fan in attic; recommended having the fan clean for both efficiency as well as overall air quality in the home. Refrigerant is balanced. There are two capacitors in the unit; one is a 40 micro that regulates the compressor and fallen below manufacturer spec; replaced. Five micro capacitor that regulates the fan is within inspect. Contactor shows minimal burning or pitting. Ductwork is flex duct in the attic that is intact and in good condition. Tested system after thorough evaluation as well as install installation of new capacitor and system is operating upon departu

.

Met with Susan to explore system options, discussing available rebates up to $4500 and a 10-year parts and labor warranty, alongside a $2500 tax credit. She requested the estimate be emailed to her to discuss with her husband.

Age: 23 yr carrier Size: 3 ton Location: gas package roof Work performed: ac and heat tune up, upon arrival system was off, opened service panel and jumped wires for heat to turn on. Performed a safety inspection on the heat exchanger to find hot spots but no cracks, flame sensor is clean, spark ignitor works good, gas pressure is set to 3.5 inwc, noticed really bad browning on the circuit board but no intermittent issues at this time, evaporator coil is clean, condenser coil is clean, blower wheel has light dust build up, inducer motor is running at .49 of .50 amps, dual run capacitor has a charge of 48.4/4.7 of 50/5 mfd, tested compressor windings with mega ohm tester to find the compressor ohms cautioned and meaning the compressor is starting to go bad, compressor amps are running at 10.39 of 16.70 amps, condenser fan motor is running at .86 of .80 amps and getting a temp drop of 18 degrees. Work suggested Condenser fan motor is running beyond max amps and has a high risk of failur

Upon arrival, we discovered that a wire had become melted off the contactor. We promptly replaced the contactor and ensured that everything is functioning correctly. Additionally, we conducted an ohm test on the compressor and uncovered a fault. We immediately informed the customer about this issue. Furthermore, we provided a quote for a system replacement and offered various financing options.

Gas valve needs to be replaced. I shut off the system for now for safety. Will call manufacturer Monday to order the part. Update 03/11/24: returned to replace gas valve. I swapped the gas valves and checked for any gas leaks and non were present. I turned on the system and the heater kicked right on. Didn’t give me any issues. Furnace is running properly as of right now.

Install Daikin fit 2.5 ton heat pump split closet ground Run new electrical Correct condensation drain with new Run main trunk line for back rooms New plenum

Installing 18.5 seer Bosch heat pump Curb Surge protector Iwave air purifier High flow 20x25x1 grille Zinsco breaker 50 gallon heat pump water heater Surge protector Run new electrical Zinsco breaker New 225amp solar ready electrical panel New breakers Seal insulate Drop existing ductwork Seal Insulation 1500 sqft

Arrived onsite for system tune up on heating side. Talked with tenant about the heating and how it has been going. System has been running well, per tenant did ask when filter was last changed, explained to me that filter was changed last year, and hasn't changed it. Pulled filter and removed, let client know this needs to be replaced every month. Due to the amount of people inside the house. Tested blower motor, tested out at 7.77. Noticed a lot of build up on motor. Also noticed ac coil starting to show rust. Would start to look into replacement options for this system. As it is starting to show ware and tare on system. Blower motor and copper showing issues.

All estimates are for work that I noticed when on site when dealing with the Diag. Noticed first that the system was throwing error code 3 flashes at the board, stating pressure switch unable to close. After further investigation could see burning on the control board as well. Burnin on control board potentially could be send wrong readings saying that the pressure switch isn’t closed. Or the inducer motor is not able to pull pressure switches closed due to older motor, blockage in motor, or blockage in flue of system. Thirdly, pressure switch could also be failed as well, causing he system to not read correctly to fully go through sequence of operations during heating. When client stated that it was heating the morning of, more points to intermittent failure with board, and motor. Left estimate for all 3 components that I noticed to be having issues

Arrived onsite for tune up, ended up being a diag, informed client what would happen if no heat. Didn’t engage heat due to issue with pressure switch and burning on control board, as well as inducer could not be pulling enough vacuum anymore and failing.left quotes for repairs for boards and pressure switches, let client know the system is in fact not heating properly but intermittently heating.